A Cariad Life

Every once in a while, sometimes when I take a moment to just sit in the courtyard or while I am ironing sheets (pretty much all of the time), I marvel that we are really here–that just a year ago, I was contemplating resigning my job and trying desperately to purchase an Inn on Bainbridge Island. This road to arrive here in France has been quite an adventure, full of twists and turns, highs and lows…it still is.

Our first major holiday here, Christmas, was especially sweet because our boys and Chloe were able to join us. Then for the next three months, Darrell and I dug in…preparing and opening the B&B, applying for our resident cards, registering our business, developing systems and processes for how to run the business, buying a car, buying furniture, setting up a bank account, the list is endless. This week, as I thought about the Easter holiday approaching–a very special time for me and my family. I dreaded a bit that this would be the first one without either of our boys here. It is also the only one (other than one due to COVID shutdown) that Darrell and I didn’t go to church, even more we actually worked on Easter Sunday morning. So, yesterday, was a bit tough for me–I loved seeing everyone’s pictures of their “Easter best” on FB and how they were loving spending time together as a family; it made me homesick though.

So how did we spend Easter? After turning over a couple of rooms, Darrell and I went for a drive through the countryside; it was a beautiful 70 degree sunny day and the fields are green, the trees are flowering, and you can hear the birds singing sweetly. Then I came home and made lamb (very French), mashed potatoes, and green beans, and we ate in the courtyard before greeting another set of guests. Last night, we watched the online church service from our church in Washington (we are 9 hours ahead, so our live experience is in the evening.) So..there were high and lows yesterday.

This past week, our road took an unexpected turn regarding my resident card application. Our visas are good for three months, expiring April 18, and they require us to apply for a long term (4 year resident card) within that three months. The application process is entirely online, very cumbersome, and has a LONG review time. Although there is a helpline, the person answering only asks more questions and never answers any. They also will not permit you to make an appointment or speak with anyone in person. In early February, we each applied: Darrell’s application was exactly the one needed for our type of visa–no issues there and we were able to apply without issue. Mine, however, did not match. I’m not sure if clicked a wrong button at the very beginning, but once I opened my application I could not change it to the correct one. I reached out to the Helpline–they only asked questions and provided no answers. So, I submitted it anyway, hoping that when they received it they would see the explanation I sent along with my submission and help me fix it. In March, we both received notification that our applications were being reviewed and just two weeks ago, Darrell received his notification that his had been accepted and his card would be available soon at the prefecture. Not mine–I learned this week my application had been closed–one week before my visa expires! For the first time since I got to France, I had a really good cry. Whew–that was tough! Then, I went back into the system and started over. This time I could access the right application (I could not submit another application until they closed the last one). I completed it within 12 hours and sent it off on Thursday. Of course Easter and Easter Monday are holidays here, so I am hoping and praying they review it this week. I don’t know what all this means, but I know there are so many ways every step of this journey has worked out, and I know it will work out again. I truly believe the road here has been providential. The good news in all of this is Darrell is set as is our business here:)

We’ve been working so hard the last three months that we decided to take a little break from the B&B and see another part of France–the Atlantic coast. Although we can get to a beach in under 2 hours, we chose to go a bit further south to Biarritz. The weather here has been glorious this past week, and it was even more spectacular on the Basque coastline, just 30 minutes north of Spain. Biarritz is a town of about 24,000 people and has historically been the destination of royalty and the wealthy for hundreds of years. Napoleon and Eugenie had a house there. It is also the birthplace of surfing in Europe, and once you see the waves and the beaches you understand why. We must have seen over 50 surfers catching waves while we were there. The town has a beautiful promenade with various spots to follow paths and bridges to little islands in the water, providing amazing views of the waves crashing inland. There are rooftop bars, tapas restaurants, and coffee shops–some perched right next to the shore and the crashing waves.

Darrell and I stayed in a very quaint boutique hotel and had a room overlooking a narrow street with shops, restaurants, and bars; we even had a tiny sea view from our balcony. It is quite different now staying in lodging; we are especially observant of how they decorate, clean, welcome guests, and the amenities offered. It was nice, but I am proud to admit that Repos does some things better:) We also enjoyed a wonderful meal very close to the sea of mussels and frites–so much better when they are as fresh as possible, as ours were. Darrell and I enjoyed long walks, people watching, and taking lots of pictures. It was just the break we needed and reminded us of this huge, diverse, beautiful country we now call home.

A fun part of the trip was the road trip there and back. The first part was to Bordeaux, through a lot of winding backroads, which we have done many times before and always enjoy. After Bordeaux, we were on a highway for the remainder of the trip. Normally, highways are not too exciting, but in France they provide you the opportunity to stop at their rest stops. The highways with tolls have regular rest stops with gas and convenience stores, but they also have restaurants and cafes. It is here that you truly see the culture of France–one that says, “Regardless of what you have to do today or where you need to travel, we are civilized and we will eat civilized.” The restaurants serve full courses, wine (interesting when folks are driving), and decadent desserts. There is always an espresso available afterward. Even if you don’t stop to eat, it is very much a part of the culture to stop in, order a coffee, stand and drink it, and then get back in your car to continue your journey. I never see anyone take their coffee with them. Even if you’re in a rush, you can take 5 minutes to enjoy your coffee.

There is a price for all of this though, road tolls in France are expensive. We spent 15 euros each way in tolls, and a trip to Paris from Bordeaux will cost 65 euros one way in tolls–it is how they fund this experience after all. Also, both ways we were stuck in traffic due to the French shutting down all the lanes to just one, so they could refill holes and cracks in the pavement. They do this in the middle of the day, not at night like in the US. Everyone seems to just go with it; people let each other in and traffic moves. Also, in normal traffic, the French drive in the right lane and the left lane is truly a passing lane (why can’t we understand this back home? Washington State, I’m talking to you:) Also, in our 4 months here, I have yet to see a car accident or any road rage. I’m sure it all happens, but haven’t seen it yet.

As we drove that day and then again through the countryside yesterday, I realized how much I love learning and growing in this country, discovering new places and the ways to approach life. There are twists and turns and unexpected setbacks (resident card and highway lane closures) and highs and lows (I really miss my kids and our church community), but it has been a “trippin’” ride that I don’t regret. (Thank you for saying a quick prayer for my resident card!)